Bpeace in Afghanistan

Yesterday a suicide bomber tried to ram his car into a convoy of NATO peacekeepers here in Kabul, blowing himself up and wounding three passers-by in the process. Its hard to fathom that Toni on the other side of the planet in NYC, knew about it before Najib or I did on the other side of town. When Toni rang Najib’s cell to check on us we had not yet heard the news. Fortunately Najib and all Bpeace personel were far from the blast, and we are all safe. At the time of the explosion, I was busy taking pictures of bucolic and almost biblical scenes of sheep and cows (see yesterday’s blog) at the animal market – a stark contrast to the turmoil and violence that lurks below the surface here. Ironically, before we learned of the afternoon’s events I happened to ask Najib who is a lifelong Kabul resident if he felt safe here. His response was an immediate and emphatic “yes”…

I guess “safe” is relative to individual experience. Compared to what Najib and others have lived through in the last few decades, things are relatively quiet at the moment. This morning Najib, Laila and I had a conversation about how to handle security today. Najib put me in the back seat of the van instead of the front, where I had been riding for most of the trip so as to be able to take photos from an open window. We were conscientious about our routes through the city, but otherwise went on with our day.

We started by going to visit Rahima at the offices of the Shura – the Provincial Government of Kabul, where she is an elected official. I was graciously received by Habibullah Maulavi, a mullah and also President of the Kabul Province Council. He told me there are 29 council members, with 10 women and 19 men. The meeting I attended was an informal follow-up to their most recent Tuesday session, and about half of the Council members came in and out during the course of the morning. It was wonderful to see Rahima in her element as a new legislator. Everyone at Bpeace is very proud of her.

In the afternoon we went back to Suria’s house to continue photographing scenes of her family life. Her daughter Tooba, age 19, was taken ill the last time we were there a few days ago, and at the time we had to cut things short to make sure Tooba was taken care of. I went back to Suria’s in part to check on the girl’s well being. Happily, Tooba is on the mend and although she was crashed on a cushion in the living room when we got there, she was feeling much better and joined the family a short time later.

After two weeks on the road, its hard to believe its time to go home. Its been an eventful visit, and I think everyone on the team did very good work while on the ground here. Although I am eager to see my family, like Kate mentioned in a previous post, I am finding it hard to leave. The people we have connected with here have found a place in my heart, and it will be difficult to say goodbye.
--Paula

On her last day in Kabul, Paula stops to buy fruit on the way to Suria's house. Its her last day to sport Kabul-style attire, and as of tomorrow it will be back to a winter wardrobe of jeans and sweaters. Guide Najib took the picture.

When you're not feeling well, there's nothing like curling up with your head in mom's lap and having her stroke your hair. Tooba (bottom) was feeling better today after a sudden illness took her to the hospital a few days ago. Happily, she is on the mend now, but a mother's concern was clearly visible on Suria's face.

Friday is the day off for Afghans, so with Najib as my guide I set out to see what people in Kabul do with their down time. Following are scenes of daily life on what counts as the Kabul weekend.
--Paula

Many homes do not have running water, so the job of fetching it often falls to the children of the household.

People have been carrying well water to their homes for centuries, and like many places in the world this is still done in Afghanistan.

Neelab (left) and Kamela in the courtyard of the Mercy Corps compound.


Greetings blog readers, this is Paula blogging today. Early this morning Athena and Marla took the UN flight back to Dubai. I am now solo here in Kabul, but with Najib and Laila close at hand I don’t feel alone. I write this on my laptop from the hotel restaurant, and although I very much miss my Bpeace cohorts, I’m not sorry to have a quiet evening and the opportunity to go to bed early.

This morning guide Najib and driver Haider squired me to the Mercy Corps office where I met Kamela and Neelab. These lovely young women are full of energy and ideas, and are in the process of launching a consulting business.

The afternoon took me to Suria’s home where she was teaching a group of girls how to do the crocheting that is a significant part of her business. Also on hand were three of her daughters (she has five daughters and one son), several grandchildren, and some of her women workers. It was a friendly group and the atmosphere was warm.

Happily, the days here have been sunny with blue skies, but its hard to describe the dust that permeates Kabul. Think bad Los Angeles smog but with particles in the air that you can actually see. One of my zoom lenses has stopped zooming past 55mm, the cause of which I suspect is dust mucking up the moving parts. Many people have hacking coughs, also due to the dust. But the early morning and late afternoon light is still beautiful, and above the haze rise snow-capped mountain peaks. Following is a photo gallery of the above.

Suria (left) and one of her younger daughters (in white) look on while her eldest daughter (right) holds her 6-month-old son Amir, who is modeling some pink crocheted baby clothes.

A view of a Kabul street at dusk on a December day.

A bicyclist braves oncoming trucks and dust as thick as fog during the late afternoon rush hour. Many bikers wear a scarf over their face to help filter the dust.

Afifa and her new baby as her sister-in-law looks on.

Marla and Laila on their last day together.

The day began with a visit to Hamida where we were entertained by her two very cute kids while she and her husband showed us her handmade products. She employs about 70 women who produce cozy knitted socks and gloves as well as embroidered blouses and scarves. Hamida has been quite successful reaching the ex-pat community here with the help of her husband. Hamida would love a mentor to help her expand her business further. Anyone interested?

Athena and Paula went on to see Afifa, who has just adopted a sweet one-month-old baby boy. She showed us scarves decorated with embroidery done in Grosny that is among the most beautiful we have seen. She’s finding that her scarves are too expensive for Afghans and she has not yet been able to break into the ex-pat market here in Kabul. She was excited by the ideas we gave her to find new markets and can’t wait to have the help of a mentor. Here’s another great opportunity for someone who wants to make a real difference in an Afghan woman’s life. You know who you are, so call Toni today!

Meanwhile Marla and Laila were busy looking for more financial sources for our associates. They visited the new CEO and the head of commercial banking of the First Microfinance Bank of Afghanistan and learned about their loans for micro, small and medium enterprise loans. Right now only 15% of their clients are women and they want to double that in the next year. So there are possibilities for our associates!

Marla and Athena depart tomorrow for Dubai. We leave Paula behind to capture more images of the lives of our associates and the street life of Kabul.

It may look like chaos, but considering that there were more than 30 children in a small space, they were remarkably well behaved toward each other and the teachers.

Teacher Rabia (red dress) helps a child with writing Dari letters.

It was impossible not to be touched by the room full of 32 little kids who delighted us with singing and dancing this morning at Habiba's childcare center. Habiba kept the rhythm by tapping her hands on a food tray while, one-by-one, boys and girls came forward to sing a special song. There was a love song about mothers, a patriotic song about Afghanistan, and finally a song about a rabbit. Habiba was very grateful for the toys, dolls, and supplies provided by her mentors, Jessica and Janine. Marla, Athena, Paula, Laila and Najib spent the morning with Habiba learning about her hopes, dreams, and plans for a new childcare center. She has a business plan, which she has already updated since our weekend class, she's bought land with her own money, and has had plans drawn up by construction engineers. The big hurdle now is getting the money to make it all happen.

In the afternoon Marla and Laila had a meeting with Rob Henning and Neal Donahue at On the Frontiers Group (OTF) where they discussed the possibility of an all woman consulting company, which is an idea we've been cultivating with our associates, Kamela, Latifa and Nelab. Rob and Neal see a big opportunity for a team of talented Afghan women offering their services in business development and market research.

The next stop for Marla and Laila was FINCA, a microfinance institution where they discussed opportunities for financial collaboration.

We have just one more day to go to complete our mission. It's quiet around here without Team 1. There's lots left to do before we get on the plane on Thursday.

Group one left Kabul today . . .Your writer is Kate. Steve and Susan are resting. One of them is snoring loudly in seat 7C. You guess.

Real world
Writing this in the air over the mountains of Afghanistan (To Group 2, departure was an Afghan breeze). Tapping away on a laptop which has aged a year or two from the dust which still clings to its keyboard. Looking down in resignation at my dry cracked hands and am reminded how this brutal place ages the Afghan faces, leaving the crevices and valleys which so fascinate Paula and her camera.

A familiar sight to me now is the winter’s white resting on the endless high peaks which stretch as far as the eye and imagination can take them. On the other side somewhere is home. Our plane is loaded with UN types all headed to their “home” for the holidays. At the moment the word “home” feels like some sort of fantasy that I cooked up. Disneyland. Not the real world we just left.

Can’t believe myself
To my surprise leaving Afghanistan has become harder. Thought is might be easier with the newness gone. Perhaps it is because my husband is now a fellow journeyman and not my homecoming. Perhaps it is because the sun was our companion everyday and not the cold clouds and deep chill of February. Perhaps the princess has gotten use to the hardships (note to Ellen: this is Day 2 of no water). Perhaps it is because we left three behind: women with whom I would travel anywhere in the world: Athena, Marla and Paula. I only can hope they would take me (I know they would take Steve).

Friendship
But I suspect it is mostly because our Afghan friends have dug deeper into my psyche and soul. I hope that we have dug deeper into theirs. With kindness and graciousness they generously extend hospitality with graceful formality, ready humor and sweetness. Friendship. Our parting with Najib at the airport was among a rush of bags and security at the last check in the cold air. Steve and Najib parted as self proclaimed “brothers”. They are so much alike these two men and watching them together (even when they ganged up on me in selecting “their favorite” carpet choice) has been a private (and now a public) joy. Najib is in my heart.

Change is happening
Kabul is changing. We hope that it “catching” to the rest of Afghanistan. More young women on the street unescorted. A new confident step to even the women under burqa. And unbelievably women in burqa attending business training sessions. What a moment that was on Sunday when they all came in. Their illiteracy could not get in the way of their hope that education could create change for them. Their leader was among the most earnest of our students. Indeed the Afghan people remain hopeful and see a future which has possibilities. Our job is to help them imagine what they can be.

With respect and affection
To the Bpeace team still on the ground. We miss you already. If the earth moves again, move with it. Stay safe, play smart and continue the amazing mission which the equally amazing Marla has created and led for us. I did not have to do a thing. What an honor it has been to do this work with all of you. See you back on the other side. Handing it off to you . . .

In her shop, Bpeace associate Sara displays some of the fashions she created.

In Sara's workroom, a young woman named Masuda works on an electric sewing machine. Sara has a generator to power her machines, a huge benefit because of Kabul's intermittent power supply. Having electric machines instead of hand or foot pedal ones, help make Sara's workers more productive.

It took a village to have a teleconference for Palwasha to complete her interview with Bucknell University today. The team included Marla, Athena, Laila, Palwasha’s mom, two Russian technicians, the Roshan teleconference team, and Mehria recording the whole thing on film. In the end the interview was successfully conducted on a cell phone. Palwasha was a star and pretty in a new shade of pink!

Marla, Kate and Steve began the day with an illuminating meeting with Sara R. at her store. Sara is an emerging designer and apparel manufacturer. The highlight was when Kate gave Sara her own Pantone color fan so she can be sure that there is never a misunderstanding over colors with her wholesale clients. While they were there they did a business assessment and learned that Sara is not interested in pursuing an international market for her goods. Her business is equally split between local Afghans and ex-pats living in Kabul. Katrin Fakiri, her local mentor, is doing a great job in helping Sara understand profit and loss and rationalize her expenses.

Meanwhile Athena met with Neelab to discuss strategies to expand her lagging marketing research business, including setting up informational interviews with ministries, NGOs, and other potential clients. They also filled out Neelab’s Success Map and began her 100 day plan so her mentor, Wendy can follow-up with her over the coming months.

Susan ventured into the world of Afghan journalism visiting the editors of the Cheragh Daily, a newspaper run by Afghan women. They were very interested in Bpeace and we will carefully explore the potential for coverage, as always making sure to protect the security of our associates and our Bpeace mission participants.

Susan set them up with access to PR Newswire's news feed for Journalists. This allows them to receive news releases of interest to Afghanistan.

Paula spent the morning with Bakhtnazira and her workers followed by an afternoon with Sara R. and her team capturing images of a typical work day for Afghan women in the apparel business. On the way home she stopped by the amazing Kabul City Center, the shiniest building in Kabul. A new Kabul is emerging.

Marla had lunch with Katrin Fakiri, who is the director of PARWAZ, a local micro-finance institution. Katrin was open to exploring taking on the role of being a local partner in the Bpeace economic development fund for our associates in Afghanistan.

Across town Kate and Athena were enjoying the best meal of the trip with Kayum Karzai, the brother of Afghanistan’s president and the founder of Afghans for a Civil Society. The main topic of the discussion was Rangina’s future, but Kate and Athena also received an education about the challenges inherent in a culture that has just come through decades of war and insecurity.

Half the team is departing tomorrow – Kate, Steve, and Susan leave Kabul in the dust and head to glistening Dubai and home. They leave conflicted hearts and for the second time Kate thinks they should stay a few months…Steve will return if he can get another film crew gig.